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One Power Window Inoperative

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 1997 Lincoln Continental. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
  1. Test Single Switches  - Turn ignition on. Ensure window lock-out switch is not activated. Test operation of windows from single switches. If all single switches are functioning, go to next step. If all single switches are not operating, go to step 3).
  2. Test Master Switch Function  - Turn ignition on. Test all windows from master switch. If all windows operate except driver's window, go to step 13). If all windows except driver's window do not operate, go to step 9).
  3. Check Power Supply  - Disconnect 14-pin harness connector from Driver's Door Module (DDM). Measure voltage between ground and Light Green/Purple wire at 14-pin connector. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Light Green/Purple wire.
  4. Test Lockout Switch  - Disconnect 14-pin harness connector from Driver's Door Module (DDM). Using a jumper wire, connect Red/Light Blue and Light Green/Purple wires at 14-pin connector. Attempt to operate windows from single switches. If windows now operate, replace driver's door module. If windows are still inoperative, leave jumper in place and go to next step.
  5. Check Power To Single Switches  - Remove any inoperative single switch(es). Check for battery voltage at Red/Light Blue wire at each single switch in question. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Red/Light Blue wire.
  6. Check For Power At Pink Or Gray/Light Blue Wire  - Check for battery voltage on Pink wire at right front or left rear single switch connector. Check for battery voltage on Gray/Light Blue wire at right rear single switch connector. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in Pink or Gray/Light Blue wire(s).
  7. Check Ground At Single Switch  - Measure resistance between ground and Black wire at suspect single switch connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, restore electrical connections and go to next step. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open Black wire and retest system.
  8. Check Single Switch  - Backprobe appropriate terminals while operating suspect switch. See SINGLE SWITCH TESTING TABLE. If voltmeter indicates positive or negative voltage while operating switch up and down, check circuits to motor for open. If voltmeter does not indicate voltage in both up and down position, replace switch.
    SINGLE SWITCH TESTING

    Switch Wire Color
    Right Front White/Black & Yellow
    Left Rear Brown & Brown/Yellow
    Right Rear Brown & Brown/Yellow
  9. Check Up Signal From Master Switch  - Remove single switch on inoperative window. Turn ignition on. Using a voltmeter connected to ground, measure voltage on appropriate wire(s) for inoperative circuit at single switch. See MASTER SWITCH CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION TABLE. Press master switch to inoperative position. If battery voltage exists, go to step 11). If battery voltage is not present, go to next step.
    MASTER SWITCH CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION

    Master Switch Position Wire Color At DDM Wire Color At Single Switch
    Right Front
    Up Tan/Light Blue Tan/Light Blue
    Down White/Yellow White/Yellow
    Left Rear
    Up Yellow/Light Blue Purple/Black
    Down Gray/Orange Yellow/Black
    Right/Rear
    Up Yellow/Black Yellow/Black
    Down Red/Black Red/Black
  10. Check DDM Output  - Access DDM 16-pin connector. Operate master switch to inoperative position. Using a voltmeter connected to ground, backprobe for voltage on appropriate terminals at DDM 16-pin harness connector. See MASTER SWITCH CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION TABLE  . If battery voltage does not exist, replace DDM. If battery voltage exists at DDM harness connector, repair open wire in question between DDM and single switch.
  11. Check Single Switches  - Remove suspect single switch. Perform single switch component test. See SINGLE SWITCHES  under COMPONENT TESTING. Replace switch if necessary. If switch is okay, reinstall switch and go to next step.
  12. Check Motor Circuits  - Disconnect inoperative window motor harness connector. Connect voltmeter to motor harness connector terminals. Operate single switch up and down. If battery voltage exists, replace window motor. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open circuit between window motor and single switch.
  13. Check Power At DDM  - Disconnect 4-pin connector at DDM. Using a voltmeter connected to ground, check for voltage on Yellow/Light Green wire at 4-pin connector. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open Yellow/Light Green wire.
  14. Check DDM Ground  - With 4-pin DDM connector unplugged, measure resistance between Black wire at 4-pin connector and ground. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, restore electrical connections and go to next step. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open Black wire.
  15. Check Left Front Window Output  - Backprobe Red/Yellow and Yellow/Red wires at DDM 4-pin connector while operating left front window switch up and down. If battery voltage does not exist, replace DDM. If battery voltage exists, repeat procedure checking for voltage at window motor harness connector. If battery voltage exists, replace window motor. If battery voltage does not exist, repair Yellow/Red or Red/Yellow wires.
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