- Rattle, squeaks or buzz type noise - from the bottom of the vehicle
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- Loose or damaged heat shield
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- INSPECT the exhaust system for loose or missing heat shields or foreign material trapped between the heat shields and the exhaust system components. If any heat shields are loose, INSTALL worm gear clamp 7L5Z-5A231-AA and tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). If the heat shields are missing, INSTALL new heat shields or exhaust system components as necessary. If a rattle, noise or buzz condition persists, INSTALL a new heat shield or component as necessary.
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- Loose or damaged exhaust isolators
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- VERIFY that the exhaust isolators are correctly installed. INSPECT the exhaust isolators for wear or damage. INSTALL new isolators as necessary.
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- Damaged exhaust isolator hanger bracket
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- INSPECT the exhaust system components for damage or broken hangers. INSTALL new components as necessary. CHECK for loose or damaged exhaust hanger brackets or fasteners. TIGHTEN the bolts to specification or INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Loose or damaged catalytic converter or muffler
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- MOVE the exhaust system to simulate the bouncing action of the vehicle, checking for exhaust-to-body contact while moving the exhaust system. Using a rubber mallet, TAP on the exhaust components to duplicate the noise concern. Lightly TAP on the muffler, then the catalytic converter. DETERMINE if there are loose or broken baffles in the muffler or a loose or broken element in the catalytic converter. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Exhaust grounded to chassis
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- Drone or clunk type noise - from the bottom of the vehicle
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- Loose or damaged exhaust isolators
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- INSPECT the exhaust isolators for wear or damage. INSTALL new isolators as necessary.
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- Exhaust grounded to chassis
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- Whistles, boom, hum or ticking type noise - noise tends to change as the engine warms. The noises are often accompanied by exhaust fumes
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- Punctures in the muffler
- Broken, loose, or missing exhaust manifold fasteners or gaskets
- Loose heated oxygen or catalyst monitor sensor
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- INSPECT the entire exhaust system for leaks. CHECK for punctures, loose or damaged clamps/fasteners, or broken welds. EXAMINE the chassis for grayish-white or black exhaust soot, which indicates exhaust leakage at that point. To magnify a small leak, have an assistant hold a rag over the tailpipe outlet while listening for a leak. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- MOVE the exhaust system to simulate the bouncing action of the vehicle, checking for exhaust-to-body contact while moving the exhaust system. Using a rubber mallet, TAP on the exhaust components to duplicate the noise concern. Lightly TAP on the muffler and the catalytic converter. DETERMINE if there are loose or broken baffles in the muffler, or a loose or broken element in the catalytic converter. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Exhaust muffler/resonator drain hole enlarged due to corrosion
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- CONFIRM the drain holes are the noise source. INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Hissing or rushing noise - high frequency sound. Vehicle performance is unaffected
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- Exhaust system. Exhaust flow through pipes
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- CHECK the exhaust system for leaks. Using a rubber mallet, TAP on the exhaust components to duplicate the noise concern. Lightly TAP on the muffler and the catalytic converter. Determine if there are loose or broken baffles in the muffler, or a loose or broken element in the catalytic converter. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Pinging noise - occurs when exhaust system is hot, engine turned off
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- Catalytic converter/exhaust system
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- Cool down pinging is a result of the exhaust system expanding and contracting during heating and cooling. Condition is normal.
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- Vibration - occurs at idle and at low speeds. Also accompanied by a clunk or buzz type noise
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- Loose or damaged exhaust isolator
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- INSPECT the exhaust isolators for wear or damage. INSTALL new isolators as necessary.
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- Loose or damaged exhaust isolator hanger brackets
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- INSPECT the exhaust isolator hanger brackets for wear or damage. INSTALL or REPAIR as necessary.
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- Damper broken or out of position
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- CHECK for the correct damper orientation. RELOCATE to the correct position and tighten the nuts to specification. INSPECT for missing or damaged damper. INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Exhaust system grounded to chassis
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- Vehicle has low or no power - vehicle performance complaint
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- Exhaust pipe pinched or crushed
- Damaged catalytic converter
- Loose obstruction in exhaust
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- Restricted exhaust (possible frozen condensate in muffler)
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- CHECK drain holes for debris. PARK the vehicle inside to thaw. TEST the vehicle for normal operation. If the concern is still present, REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines
article.
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- Burning smell - usually occurs at idle, with possible traces of smoke
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- Foreign material caught in exhaust system
- Missing heat shields
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- INSPECT the exhaust system for debris or missing heat shields. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
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- Odor - described as a sulfur or rotten egg smell
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- Catalytic converter
- Excessive sulfur content in fuel
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- At times, a slight sulfur smell is normal for catalytic converters. The cause is the sulfur content in the gasoline being used. ADVISE the customer no repair is required.
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- Rich fuel conditions
- Misfire conditions
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- Visible rust on surface of exhaust pipes
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- Catalytic converter/exhaust system
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- Surface rust is a characteristic of materials used on exhaust systems. Exposure to heat or road salt may result in surface rust. INSPECT for perforations. If there are no perforations, the condition is normal.
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