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With Keyless Access System

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2011 Acura TL, 2010 Acura TL, and 2009 Acura TL. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*1) applies to without SH-AWD ('09 model, (*2) applies to with SH-AWD ('09 model), (*3) applies to A/T model without SH-AWD and M/T model with SH-AWD ('10 - 11 model) and (*4) applies to A/T model with SH-AWD ('10 - 11 model).
  1. Check the No 3-5 (30 A) (*1, *3), (40 A) (*2, *4) fuse, the No 14 (15 A) fuse, and the No 21 (7 5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No 16 (7 5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box

    Are the fuse(s) OK? 

    YES  -Reinstall the fuse(s), then go to step 2

    NO  -Replace the fuse(s) and recheck If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the relay circuit board, the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan motor, the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector terminal F26 and the under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8

  2. Disconnect and remove the relay circuit board from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it (see FIVE-TERMINAL TYPE )

    Is the relay circuit board OK? 

    YES  -Go to step 3

    NO  -Replace the relay circuit board, then retest

  3. Measure the voltage between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal C3 and body ground
    Fig 1: Measuring Voltage Between Under-Hood Fuse/ Relay Box Connector Terminal C3 And Body Ground
    G05987168Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Is there battery voltage? 

    YES  -Go to step 4

    NO  -Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box

  4. Connect under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminals C1 and C3 with a jumper wire
    Fig 2: Connecting Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Connector Terminals C1 And C3 With Jumper Wire
    G05987169Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Does the radiator fan run at high speed? 

    YES  -Go to step  8

    NO  -Go to step 5

  5. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector, then test the fan motor (see FAN MOTOR TEST )

    Is the fan motor OK? 

    YES  -Go to step 6

    NO  -Replace the radiator fan motor, then retest

  6. Check for continuity between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No 1 and body ground
    Fig 3: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector Terminal No 1 And Body Ground
    G05987170Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Is there continuity? 

    YES  -Go to step 7

    NO  -Repair open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No 1 and body ground (G302)

  7. Check for continuity between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal C1 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No 2
    Fig 4: Checking Continuity Between Under-Hood Fuse/ Relay Box Connector Terminal C1 And Radiator Fan Motor 2P No 2
    G05987171Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Is there continuity? 

    YES  -Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan motor, the radiator fan motor and body ground (G302)

    NO  -Repair open in the wire between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal C1 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No 2

  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode
  9. Measure the voltage between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8 and body ground
    Fig 5: Measuring Voltage Between Under-Hood Fuse/ Relay Box Connector Terminal B8 And Body Ground
    G05987172Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Is there battery voltage? 

    YES  -Go to step 10

    NO  -Repair open in the wire between driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector terminal F26 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8

  10. Measure the voltage between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B9 and body ground
    Fig 6: Measuring Voltage Between Under-Hood Fuse/ Relay Box Connector Terminal B9 And Body Ground
    G05987173Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Is there battery voltage? 

    YES  -Go to step 11

    NO  -Check the PGM-FI subrelay If the relay is OK, replace the under-hood fuse/relay box

  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode
  12. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION )
  13. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode
  14. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain control module (PCM) If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING )
  15. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode
    NOTE: This step must be done to protect the PCM from damage
  16. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P)
  17. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A5 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B10
    Fig 7: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal A5 And Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Connector Terminal B10
    G05987174Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Is there continuity? 

    YES  -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see ECM/PCM UPDATE ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see SUBSTITUTING THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT )

    NO  -Repair open the wire between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B10 and PCM connector terminal A5