Front Passenger's Power Window Switch Input Test
NOTE:
The power window control unit is built into the front passenger's power window switch.
- Remove the front passenger's power window switch (A) (see FRONT PASSENGER'S ).
- Reconnect the front passenger's door wire harness to the front passenger's door subharness.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the connector.
- If a test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the front passenger's power window switch must be faulty; replace it (see FRONT PASSENGER'S ).
- With the switch still disconnected, do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 3 PUR Under all conditions Check for continuity between terminal No. 3 and power window master switch 22P connector terminal No. 2:
There should be continuity.An open or high resistance in the wire 14 RED Momentarily connect terminals No. 14 and No. 7 and terminals No. 8 and No. 1 with jumper wires Check front passenger's power window motor operation:
The window should go down.- Blown No. 30 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Poor ground (G505) or an open in the ground wire
8 YEL Momentarily connect terminals No. 8 and No. 7 and terminals No. 14 and No. 1 with jumper wires Check front passenger's power window motor operation:
The window should go up. - Reconnect the 14P connector to the front passenger's power window switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the front passenger's power window switch.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 7 GRN Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 30 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
1 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G505)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
2 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G505)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
6 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.A short to ground in the wire 5 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and front passenger's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 5 and No. 6:
An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).- Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
4 YEL Ignition switch ON (II), and front passenger's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 4 and No. 6:
An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).