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Home >> Ford >> 1989 >> Ranger 2D Pickup, 2.3 A, 4WD, M5OD-R1 >> Repair and Diagnosis >> Engine Performance >> Ignition System >> Ignition System - DISTRIBUTORLESS >> Testing >> Test 1 - System Function Test
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Test 1 - System Function Test

  1. Bring engine to normal operating temperature. Disconnect SPOUT connector or jumper. Ignition timing should be within 7-13 degrees BTDC. If okay, go to step 2). If timing is not within specifications, go to step 3).
  2. Reconnect SPOUT connector/jumper and recheck timing. Timing should be within 26-34 degrees BTDC. If okay, go to step 4). If not okay, replace DIS module.
  3. Inspect vane cups (located behind damper). If vane cups are okay, replace crank sensor. If vane cups are damaged or bent, repair or replace vane cups.
  4. Crank test engine. Is cranking smooth and regular? If okay, go to step 6). If not okay, go to step 5).
  5. Using a Neon Bulb-Type Spark Tester (Champion CT-436), check for continuous spark at all right plug wires during cranking or with engine running. If okay, go to step 6). If not okay, go to step 9).
  6. Install DIS Diagnostic Cable (Hickok HK-100-306) and EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV). Leave ECA disconnected. See Fig 1. Connect voltmeter between breakout box test pins J51 (CIDD) and J2 (IGNDD). Crank engine in very short bursts, voltmeter should read from zero and 12 volts. Start engine, voltmeter should read between 5.4-7.4 volts. If okay, go to step 31) of TEST 2 under TESTING in this article. If not okay, go to step 1) of TEST 3 under TESTING in this article.
    Fig 1: DIS Diagnostic Cable & Breakout Box Hookup
    G113252Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
  7. Check for continuous spark at all of right spark plug wires during cranking or when engine is running. If okay, go to step 8). If not okay, go to step 9).
  8. Check for continuous spark at all of left spark plug wires with engine running. If spark is continuous, ignition is okay. See appropriate article in FUEL SYSTEMS section listed below. If not okay, go to step 12).
  9. Using a Spark Tester (D81P-6666-A), check spark at right coil. A good quality spark should be present at all 4 coil towers. If okay, go to step 11). If not, go to step 1) of TEST 2 under TESTING in this article.
  10. Check resistance of right spark plug wires. Resistance should be less than 30,000 ohms for each wire. If not, replace any of the bad wires. If okay, go to next step.
  11. Inspect all the right spark plugs. If okay, go to step 1) of TEST 2 under TESTING in this article. If not, replace spark plugs.
  12. Check resistance of left spark plug wires. Resistance should be less than 30,000 ohms for each wire. If not, replace any of the bad wires. If okay, go to next step.
  13. Inspect all the left spark plugs. If okay, go to step 1) of TEST 2 under TESTING in this article. If not, replace spark plugs.
  14. Using the DIS diagnostic cable and EEC-IV breakout box, measure voltage between test pin J32 (PIPD) and battery negative terminal. While cranking engine in short bursts, voltmeter should read zero and battery voltage. With engine running, voltmeter should read between 5.5-7.5 volts. If okay, go to step 15). If not okay, go to step 17).
  15. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between test pins J32 (PIPD) and J51 (PIPS). Resistance should be less than 5 ohms. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, crank sensor is okay. See appropriate article in FUEL SYSTEMS listed below. If resistance is more than 5 ohms, go to next step.
  16. Remove DIS module. Check resistance between pins 3 and 4. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair DIS connector. If resistance is more than 5 ohms, replace DIS module.
  17. Measure voltage between test pin J35 (PIP) of breakout box and battery negative terminal. While cranking engine in short bursts, voltmeter should read zero and 12 volts. With engine running, voltmeter should read between 5.5-7.5 volts. If okay, repair open circuit at PIP harness. If not, go to step 18).
  18. Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between test pin J56 (VBATS) and battery negative terminal. If voltage is more than 11 volts, go to step 19). If not, repair open circuit in VBATS harness.
  19. Turn ignition off. Connect ohmmeter between test pin J55 (IGNDS) and battery negative terminal. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to step 20). If resistance is more than 5 ohms, repair open circuit at IGNDS wiring harness.
  20. Disconnect DIS module from DIS input and repeat step 17). If results are okay now, replace DIS module. If not, go to step 21).
  21. Disconnect sensor from sensor tee on DIS diagnostic cable. With ignition off, measure resistance between breakout box test pins J35 (PIPS) and J51 (PIPD). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to step 22). If resistance is more than 5 ohms, repair open circuit at PIPS wiring harness.
  22. With ignition off, measure resistance between test pins J35 (PIPS) and J56 (VBATS). If resistance is more than 10,000 ohms, go to step 23). If resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, check for shorted VBATS harness.
  23. With ignition off, measure resistance between test pins J35 (PIPS) and J55 (IGNDS). If resistance is more than 10,000 ohms, replace sensor. If resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, PIPS is shorted to ground.
  24. Check timing at 2000 PRM. If timing is more than 18 degrees BTDC, check coil tach signal. Refer to 2.2L CEC TESTS W/CODES article in COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section. If timing is less than 18 degrees BTDC, replace DIS module.
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