Engine Block
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NOTE: If the oil squirters are being reused, they must be installed in the same location as marked during disassembly.NOTE: The front bulkhead does not have an oil squirter.
Install the 4 oil squirters.
- Tighten to 4 Nm (35 lb-in).
- Measure each of the crankshaft main bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions and record the smallest diameter for each journal.
- Position the main bearing beam in the engine block with the main bearing beam mounted flush with the rear face of the engine block.
- Using the original main bearing beam bolts, install and tighten the 10 main bearing beam bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Measure each crankshaft block main bearing bore diameter.
- Remove the bolts and the main bearing beam.
- Discard the main bearing beam bolts.
- Using the chart, select the crankshaft main bearings.
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NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.
Using the original connecting rod cap bolts, install the connecting caps and bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 29 Nm (21 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Measure the connecting rod large end bore in 2 directions. Record the smallest measurement for each connecting rod.
- Remove the bolts and the connecting rod cap.
- Discard the connecting rod cap bolts.
- Measure each of the crankshaft connecting rod bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions. Record the smallest measurement for each connecting rod journal.
- Using the chart, select the correct connecting rod bearings for each crankshaft connecting rod journal.
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NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free of chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.NOTE: If reusing the crankshaft main bearings, install them in their original positions and orientation as noted during disassembly.NOTE: The center bulkhead is the thrust bearing.
Lubricate the upper crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 5 crankshaft main bearings in the cylinder block.
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NOTE: If reusing the crankshaft main bearings, install them in their original positions and orientation as noted during disassembly.
Lubricate the crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 5 crankshaft main bearings in the main bearing beam.
- Lubricate journals on the crankshaft with clean engine oil.
- Position the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
- Lubricate the 10 main bearing beam side fit surfaces (front 2 shown) with clean engine oil.
- Lubricate the crankshaft bearing journals on the main bearing beam with clean engine oil. Then position the main bearing beam in the engine block with the main bearing beam mounted flush with the rear face of the engine block.
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NOTE: Lubricate the main bearing beam bolts threads and under the bolt heads with clean engine oil.NOTE: Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block, then position the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block before tightening the main bearing beam bolts.
Install and tighten the 10 new main bearing beam bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure crankshaft end play.
- Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block.
- Zero the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture.
- Move the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block. Note and record the crankshaft end play.
- Acceptable crankshaft end play is 0.22-0.43 mm (0.008-0.016 in). If the crankshaft end play exceeds the specified range, install new parts as necessary.
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NOTE: Be sure not to scratch the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal with the connecting rod. Push the piston down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.NOTE: Lubricate the pistons, piston rings, connecting rod bearings and the entire cylinder bores with clean engine oil.NOTE: Make sure the piston arrow on top is facing toward the front of the engine.
Using the Piston Ring Compressor and the Connecting Rod Installer, install the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
- When installing the pistons and connecting rod assemblies, the oil ring gaps must be positioned 60 degrees apart from each other and a minimum of 90 degrees from the expander gap.
- The position of the upper and lower compression ring gaps are not controlled for installation.
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NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Install connecting rod caps and bolts on the connecting rods for cylinders 1 and 4 first and tighten. Then rotate crankshaft 180 degrees and install connecting rod caps and bolts on connecting rods for cylinders 2 and 3 and tighten.NOTE: After installation of each connecting rod cap, rotate the crankshaft to verify smooth operation.
Install the connecting rod caps and the new bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 29 Nm (21 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Install the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg and rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise until the crankshaft balance weight is up against the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg. The engine is now at Top Dead Center (TDC).
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NOTE: Due to the precision interior construction of the balancer unit, it should not be disassembled.NOTE: The original adjustment shims must be installed in their original position.NOTE: Confirm by visual inspection that there is no damage to the balancer unit gear and verify that the shaft turns smoothly. If there is any damage or malfunction, replace the balancer unit.
Install the adjustment shims in their original position on the seat faces of the balancer unit.
- With the balancer unit shaft marks in the TDC position, slowly install the balancer unit to the cylinder block to avoid interference between the crankshaft drive gear and the balancer unit driven gear.
- Install the balancer unit bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Remove the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
- Rotate the crankshaft to confirm that there are no meshing problems between the balancer unit gear and the crankshaft gear.
- Install the Crankshaft TDC
Timing Peg and rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise until the crankshaft balance weight is up against the Crankshaft TDC
Timing Peg.
- Remove the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
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NOTE: Measure the backlash and verify that it is within specified range at all of the following 6 positions: 10 degrees, 30 degrees, 100 degrees, 190 degrees, 210 degrees and 280 degrees. It will be necessary to reset the measuring equipment between measurements.NOTE: The measurement must be taken with the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, a 5-mm Allen wrench and worm clamp set up as shown. Mark the Allen wrench with a file 80 mm (3.149 in) above the driven gear shaft center. Make sure the worm clamp and Allen wrench are not touching the balance shaft housing.NOTE: For an accurate measurement while measuring the gear backlash, insert a screwdriver as shown into the crankshaft No. 1 crankweight area and set both the rotation and the thrust direction with the screwdriver, using a prying action as shown.
Position the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture as shown. Measure the gear backlash.
- Position the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture (1) on the Allen wrench 80 mm (3.149 in) above the driven gear shaft center (2) on the balancer unit.
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and measure the backlash at all of the following 6 positions: 10 degrees, 30 degrees, 100 degrees, 190 degrees, 210 degrees and 280 degrees.
- Backlash specifications are 0.005 to 0.101 mm (0.00019 to 0.0039 in).
- If the backlash exceeds the specified range, carry out the balance shaft backlash procedure. For additional information, refer to the Balance Shaft Backlash procedure in this section.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the No. 1 piston at TDC.
- Remove the engine plug bolt.
- Install the special tool.
- Install the oil pump assembly. Tighten the 4 bolts in the sequence shown in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- Install a new gasket, oil pump pickup tube and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using the special tool, install the crankshaft rear main oil seal.
- Tighten the 6 crankshaft rear main oil seal bolts in the sequence shown.
- To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Clean and inspect all mating surfaces.
- Apply a 2.5 mm (0.09 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the oil pan.
- Position the oil pan onto the engine and install the 2 rear oil pan bolts finger-tight.
- Using a suitable straight edge, align the front surface of the oil pan flush with the front surface of the engine block.
- Install the remaining oil pan bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- Install the 2 cylinder head alignment dowels. Dowels must be fully seated in the cylinder block.
- Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surface of both the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
- Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
- Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
- Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
- Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any traces of oil or coolant, and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
- Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the locations shown.
- Install a new head gasket.
- Install 10 new cylinder head bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 15 Nm (11 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Turn 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Turn an additional 90 degrees.
- Install the valve tappets,
- Install the camshafts and bearing caps. Tighten the camshaft bearing caps in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts until finger tight.
- Stage 2: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 16 Nm (12 lb-ft).
- Install the variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the crankshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket diamond washers, oil pump chain and oil pump sprocket.
- The crankshaft sprocket flange must be facing away from the engine block.
- Install the oil pump chain, sprocket and bolt.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the oil pump chain guide and the shoulder bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the oil pump chain tensioner and bolt. Hook the tensioner spring around the shoulder bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the special tool in the slots on the rear of both camshafts.
- Install the camshaft sprockets and the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
- Install the timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the timing chain.
- Install the timing chain tensioner arm.
- Using the edge of a vise, compress the timing chain tensioner plunger.
- Using a small pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.
- While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.
- Install a paper clip into the hole in the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and the plunger in during installation.
- Install the timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts. Remove the paper clip to release the piston.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using the flats on the camshafts to prevent camshaft rotation, tighten the bolts.
- Tighten to 72 Nm (53 lb-ft).
- Clean and inspect the mounting surfaces of the engine and the front cover.
- Apply a 2.5 mm (0.09 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the cylinder head and oil pan joint areas. Apply a 2.5 mm (0.09 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the front cover.
- Install the engine front cover. Tighten the 22 bolts in the sequence shown, to the following specifications:
- Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Tighten the 13-mm bolts to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Using the special tool, install a new crankshaft front oil seal.
- Position the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft with the hole in the pulley at the 6 o'clock position.
- Install a standard 6 mm (0.23 in) x 18 mm (0.7 in) bolt through the crankshaft pulley and thread it into the front cover.
- Assemble the special tools using 4 hardened washers in the locations shown.
- Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt. Using the special tools to hold the crankshaft pulley in place, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 100 Nm (74 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
- Remove the 6 mm (0.23 in) x 18 mm (0.7 in) bolt.
- Remove the special tool.
- Remove the special tool.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise 1 and 3/4 turns.
- Install the special tool.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft contacts the special tool.
- Using the 6 mm (0.23 in) x 18 mm (0.7 in) bolt, check the position of the crankshaft pulley.
- If it is not possible to install the bolt, the engine valve timing must be corrected.
- Using the special tool, check the position of the camshafts.
- If it is not possible to install the special tool, the engine valve timing must be corrected.
- Remove the special tool.
- Install a new CKP sensor and the 2 bolts.
- Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
- Adjust the CKP sensor with the alignment tool.
- Tighten the 2 CKP bolts to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
- Remove the 6 mm (0.23 in) x 18 mm (0.7 in) bolt.
- Remove the special tool.
- Install the engine plug bolt.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- Clean the valve cover gasket surface with metal surface cleaner.
- Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the locations shown.
- Install the valve cover.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the oil level indicator.
- Install the 4 coil-on-plug assemblies 4 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install new fuel injector O-rings.
- Separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
- Remove and discard the fuel injector O-rings.
- Install new O-rings and lubricate with clean engine oil.
- Install the fuel injectors onto the fuel rail.
- Install the fuel rail and injector assembly and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Position the wiring harness on the engine and attach the wiring harness retainers.
- Connect the 4 fuel injector electrical connectors.
- Install the fuel supply rail insulator and attach the 2 pin-type harness retainers.
- Connect the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector and install the boot.
- Connect the 4 coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Connect the VCT solenoid electrical connector.
- Connect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor electrical connector.
- Install a new gasket, the oil filter adapter and the 4 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install a new engine oil filter.
- Tighten the oil filter (spin on filter type) to 18 Nm (13 lb-ft).
- Tighten the oil filter cup (replaceable filter element type) to 33 Nm (24 lb-ft).
- Using a new gasket, install the crankcase vent oil separator and the bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the KS and the bolt.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- Position the bypass hose on the engine and connect the bypass hose to the coolant outlet.
- Connect the bypass hose to the cylinder block nipple.
- Install the thermostat housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the EGR tube.
- Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
- Position the intake manifold and connect the positive crankcase ventilation hose.
- Install new gaskets, the intake manifold and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten the bolts to 18 Nm (13 lb-ft).
- Connect the electronic throttle body electrical connector.
- Attach the 2 wiring harness pin-type retainers to the intake manifold.
- Connect the 2 swirl control valve electrical connectors.
- Connect the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) actuator electrical connector.
- Connect the temperature manifold actual pressure (MAP) sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the oil pressure sender electrical connector.
- Connect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) coolant hose and electrical connector.
- Connect the coolant temperature sender electrical connector.
- Install the catalytic converter bracket and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- If equipped, install the block heater.
- Tighten to 21 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- If equipped, connect the block heater electrical connector.
- Install 7 new catalytic converter studs in the cylinder head.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb-ft).
- Install a new gasket, the catalytic converter and 7 new nuts. Tighten the nuts in 2 stages in the sequence shown.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
- Install the 2 catalytic converter bracket bolts.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- Install the heat shield and the 6 screws.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Attach the wiring harness retainer to the valve cover stud.
- Attach the wiring harness bracket to the valve cover stud.
- Connect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
- Connect the CMS electrical connector(s).
- Position the AIR valve, hoses and pump assembly onto the engine and install the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Connect the AIR valve electrical connector.
- Connect the AIR valve vacuum supply tube to the intake manifold.
- Connect the AIR hose to the catalytic converter.
- Install the generator, bolt and 2 stud bolts.
- Tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Connect the pin-type retainer, generator electrical connections and install the nut.
- Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
- Install the rubber boot.
- Install the generator splash shield and the 2 nuts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector and harness pin-type retainer.
- Install the accessory drive belt idler pulley.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the new O-ring, coolant pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the coolant pump pulley and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
- Install the A/C compressor and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the A/C manifold and the bolt.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
- Position the coolant hose on the engine and connect the coolant hose to the throttle body.
- Connect the lower radiator and heater hoses to the thermostat housing.
- Connect the KS electrical connector and the 2 harness pin-type retainers.
- Install the power steering pump and the lower bolt.
- Finger tighten the bolt.
- Install the 2 upper power steering pump bolts.
- Tighten all 3 power steering bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Connect the power steering pressure (PSP) switch electrical connector.
- On late build engines, install the accessory drive belt tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- On early build vehicles, install the shield, pin-type retainer, tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Position the accessory drive belt onto the tensioner and all of the accessory drive pulleys except the coolant pump pulley.
- Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and install the accessory drive belt onto the coolant pump pulley.
- On early build engines, use the pulley bolt to rotate the tensioner.
- On late build engines, use the hex feature to rotate the tensioner.
- Using the Heavy Duty Floor Crane and Spreader Bar, remove the engine from the engine stand.
- Install the flexplate and the 6 bolts. Tighten the 6 bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 80 Nm (50 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 112 Nm (83 lb-ft).
- Install the flywheel and the 6 bolts. Tighten the 6 bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 80 Nm (50 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 112 Nm (83 lb-ft).
- Install the starter motor isolator.
- Lubricate the transaxle input shaft pilot bearing with front axle grease.
- Using the special tool, position the clutch disc on the flywheel.
- Position the clutch pressure plate and install the 6 bolts.
- Tighten to 29 Nm (21 lb-ft) in a star pattern sequence.
Vehicles with secondary air injection (AIR)
All vehicles
Vehicles with automatic transaxle
Vehicles with manual transaxle