Door Multiplex Control Unit Input Test
NOTE:
Make sure the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) before disconnecting the driver's door switch panel.
- Remove the driver's door switch panel (see PASSENGER'S POWER WINDOW MOTOR TEST ).
- Disconnect the 23P connector from the power window master switch.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit and make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the power window master switch.
WIRE AND TEST CONDITION CHARTCavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 15 WHT/RED Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
20 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire'
1 BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.5 V.- Poor ground(G601)
- An open in the wire
16 GRN/RED Disconnect driver's under-dash fuse/relay box J (26P) and door multiplex control unit connectors Check for continuity between No. 16 terminal and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector J (21P) No. 4 terminal:
There should be continuity.An open in the wire Check for continuity between the No. 16 terminal and body ground:
There should be no continuity.A short to ground in the wire