Power Window Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch.
- Remove the driver's door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect the 22P connector (A) from the master switch (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the connector still disconnected, do these input tests at the following connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
CONNECTOR TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHARTCavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 9 GRY Momentarily connect terminals No. 4 and No. 9 and terminals No. 10 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
10 PNK Momentarily connect terminals No. 4 and No. 10 and terminals No. 9 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation: The window should go up. 1 ORN Momentarily connect terminals No. 3 and No. 2 and terminals No. 1 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check front passenger's power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- Faulty front passenger's power window switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
2 BRN Momentarily connect terminals No. 3 and No. 1 and terminals No. 2 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check front passenger's power window motor operation: The window should go up. 13 LT BLU Momentarily connect terminals No. 15 and No. 14 and terminals No. 13 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check right rear power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty right rear power window motor
- Faulty right rear power window switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
14 RED Momentarily connect terminals No. 15 and No. 13 and terminals No. 14 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check right rear power window motor operation: The window should go up. 21 PUR Momentarily connect terminals No. 20 and No. 21 and terminals No. 22 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check left rear power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty left rear power window motor
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
22 GRN Momentarily connect terminals No. 20 and No. 22 and terminals No. 21 and No. 12 with jumper wires Check left rear power window motor operation: The window should go up. - Reconnect the 22P connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do these input tests at the following connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch, and go to step 6.
CONNECTOR TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHARTCavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 3 GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 30 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty MICU
- An open or high resistance in the wire
4 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
15 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 32 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty MICU
- An open or high resistance in the wire
20 BLU Ignition switch ON (ID Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 33 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty MICU
- An open or high resistance in the wire
7 LT BLU Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
11 BLK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up and down Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
12 BLK Ignition switch ON (II), main switch ON, and passenger's power window moving up and down Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
16 PUR Ignition switch ON (ID Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty power window master switch
- A short to ground in the wire
5 PNK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 5 and No. 7: An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0 V and 5 V (a digital voltmeter should reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
6 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 6 and No. 7: An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0 V and 5 V (a digital voltmeter should reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).