| When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the D indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at all |
- F-CAN communication line error
- Gauge control module defective
- PCM defective
|
|
| A/T gear position indicator does not come on with the shift lever in that position |
- F-CAN communication line error
- Gauge control module defective
- Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- PCM defective
|
|
| Transmission shifts into 4th or 5th gear in D even though the D3 switch is pressed |
A problem in the D3 switch circuit |
|
| Shift lever cannot be moved from P while pressing on the brake pedal |
- Brake pedal position switch circuit
- Brake pedal position switch defective
- Shift lock solenoid defective
- Shift lock solenoid control circuit
- Shift lock solenoid mechanism
- Accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
- Accelerator pedal position sensor defective
- Throttle body defective
- Transmission range switch ATPP switch stuck OFF
- Transmission range switch ATPP switch circuit open
- Relative throttle position sensor value too high
- PCM defective
|
|
| Ignition switch cannot be moved from ACCESSORY (1) to LOCK (0) (key is pushed in, the shift lever in P) |
- Interlock control system circuit
- Key interlock solenoid stuck ON
- Park pin switch stuck ON
- Transmission range switch ATPP line opened
|
|
| When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the D3 indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at all |
- Gauge control module defective
- F-CAN communication line error
- PCM defective
|
|
| HDS does not communicate with the PCM |
- DLC circuit
- PCM defective
|
Troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see
DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
). |
| Engine runs, but vehicle does not move in any gear |
- Low ATF level
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- Axle disengaged
- ATF pump worn or binding
- Regulator valve stuck or spring worn
- ATF strainer clogged
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- Mainshaft Worn or damaged
- Countershaft worn or damaged
- Final gears worn or damaged
- Park mechanism defective
- Selector control shaft worn or damaged
- Drive plate defective
- Torque converter defective
- Transmission-to-engine assembly error
|
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
- Check the regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the regulator valve body.
- Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged Components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the cooler and lines.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause the ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools.
- Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage.
- Inspect the countershaft and the secondary shaft for wear and damage.
- Inspect the park mechanism at the park lever link, park gear, and 2nd gears.
- Check the drive plate for wear and damage, replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged.
- Check for a misinstalled transmission.
|
| Vehicle moves in R, but not in D or L |
- Accumulator body defective
- Idler gears worn or damaged
- 1st gear one-way clutch defective
- 1st gears worn or damaged
- 1st clutch defective
- 1st-hold clutch defective
|
- Check the 1st clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Check the 1st-hold clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, the intermediary shaft, 1st gears, the one-way clutch, and the idler gears for wear and damage.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 1st clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 1st clutch assembly.
- Inspect the clearance between clutch plate B and the top disc of the 1st-hold clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 1st clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
|
| Vehicle moves in D and L but not in R (or moves forward in R) |
- Shift fork shaft stuck
- Accumulator body defective
- 5th clutch defective
- Reverse gears worn or damaged
- Reverse idler gear shaft/holder worn or damaged
- Reverse selector or reverse selector hub worn or damaged
|
- Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
- Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage.
- Replace the regulator valve body.
- Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 5th clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 4th/5th clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
- Inspect the reverse idler gear shaft/holder for wear and damage.
- Inspect the reverse selector gear teeth chamfers, and inspect the engagement teeth chamfers of the countershaft 5th gear and the reverse gear. Replace the reverse gears and the reverse selector if they are worn or damaged. If the transmission makes clicking, grinding, or whirring noises, also replace the mainshaft 5th gear, the reverse idler gear, and the countershaft 5th gear.
|
| Poor acceleration; engine revs up abnormally high when starting off in D, L, and R |
- Low ATF level
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- ATF pump worn or binding
- Regulator valve stuck or spring worn
- Stator shaft worn or damaged
- ATF strainer clogged
- Torque converter one-way clutch defective
- Torque converter check valve defective
- Shift valve E defective
|
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Improper alignment of ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
- Check the regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the regulator valve body.
- Check the stator shaft splines for wear and damage.
- Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged Components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
- Check the torque converter check valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check shift valve E in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Replace the torque converter.
|
| Poor acceleration; engine revs up abnormally high when starting off in D, L and R; stall speed high in D, L |
- Low ATF level
- Accumulator body defective
- 1st clutch defective
- 1st-hold clutch defective
- 2nd clutch defective
|
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the 1st clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Check the 1st-hold clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Check the 2nd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 1st clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 1st clutch assembly.
- Inspect the clearance between clutch plate B and the top disc of the 1st-hold clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 1st clutch assembly.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 2nd clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 2nd clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
|
| Poor acceleration; engine revs up abnormally high when starting off in D, L and R; stall speed high in R |
- Low ATF level
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Accumulator body defective
- 5th clutch defective
|
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
- Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 5th clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 4th/5th clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
|
| Poor acceleration; in D, L and R; stall speed low; engine does not rev to high rpm; transmission does not upshift under hard acceleration |
- Engine output low
- Rocker arm defective
- Restricted intake
- Restricted exhaust
- Torque converter clutch piston defective
|
|
| Engine idle vibration; engine stalls, idles low or rough |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- Low ATF level
- Engine output low
- Torque converter clutch piston defective
- Shift solenoid valve D defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Lock-up control valve defective
- Lock-up timing valve defective
- Tight valves
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the engine control system.
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
- Test the shift solenoid valve function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Check the lock-up shift valve and the lock-up timing valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the regulator valve body.
|
| Vehicle moves in N |
- Excessive ATF
- Low ATF level
- ATF temperature sensor defective
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- Relief valve defective
- Reverse control valve defective
- Lubrication control valve defective
- 1st-hold clutch defective
- 1st clutch defective
- 2nd clutch defective
- 3rd clutch defective
- 4th clutch defective
- 5th clutch defective
- Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
- Needle bearing seized, worn, or damaged
- Thrust washer seized, worn or damaged
|
- Check the ATF level, and drain the ATF if it is over-filled.
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Inspect the ATF temperature sensor connections.
- Check the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check all clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Check the relief valve and lubrication control valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check the reverse control valve in the secondary valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the secondary valve body.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of all clutches. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the clutch assembly.
- Check the needle bearings and the thrust washers on all shafts for seizure, wear, and damage.
|
| Delayed engagement after shifting from N to D, or excessive shock when shifting |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- Shift solenoid valve A defective
- Shift solenoid valve B defective
- Shift solenoid valve C defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- Transmission range switch out of adjustment
- Low ATF level
- ATF temperature sensor defective
- CPC valve C stuck
- ATF strainer clogged
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- Shift valve A defective
- Shift valve D defective
- Servo control valve defective
- Accumulator body defective
- 1st check ball stuck
- 1st clutch defective
- Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Test the shift solenoid valves with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT
).
- Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A or B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the line pressure and 1st clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever.
- Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
- Inspect the ATF temperature sensor connections.
- Inspect the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged Components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
- Check CPC valve C in the secondary valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the secondary valve body.
- Check shift valve A in the main valve body for free movement. If the does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check shift valve D in the secondary valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the secondary valve body.
- Check the servo control valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 1st clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 1st clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
- Check for a stuck 1st check ball in the secondary valve body.
- Check the transmission range switch adjustment.
|
| Delayed engagement after shifting from N to R, or excessive shock when shifting |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- Transmission range switch out of adjustment
- ATF temperature sensor defective
- Reverse CPC valve defective
- ATF strainer clogged
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- 5th clutch defective
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
) and 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged Components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
- Inspect the ATF temperature sensor connections.
- Check the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 5th clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 4th/5th clutch assembly.
- Check the transmission range switch adjustment
|
| Transmission does not shift |
- Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
- Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
- Engine output low
|
- Check the speed sensor installation.
- Inspect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor corrosion or the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor corrosion.
- Check for exhaust restrictions.
- Check for intake restrictions.
- Check fuel pressure (see
FUEL PRESSURE TEST
).
|
| Excessive shock or engine revs up abnormally high on all upshifts and downshifts |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
- Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
- ATF temperature sensor defective
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Check the speed sensor installation.
- Inspect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor corrosion or the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor corrosion.
- Inspect the ATF temperature sensor connections.
- Check the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
|
| Excessive shock or engine revs up abnormally high on 1-2 upshift or 2-1 downshift |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- Shift solenoid valve A defective
- Shift solenoid valve B defective
- Shift solenoid valve C defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) defective
- CPC valve A defective
- CPC valve B defective
- CPC valve C defective
- Shift valve C defective
- Shift valve D defective
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- Accumulator body defective
- 2nd clutch defective
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Test the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) operation with the HDS.
- Test the shift solenoid valve function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT
).
- Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A or B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check the 2nd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Check CPC valve A in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check CPC valves B and C in the secondary valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the secondary valve body.
- Check shift valves C and D in the secondary valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the secondary valve body.
- Inspect the 2nd clutch for wear and damage.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 2nd clutch. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 2nd clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
|
| Excessive shock or engine revs up abnormally high on 2-3 upshift or 3-2 downshift |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- Shift solenoid valve D defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) defective
- Shift fork shaft stuck
- Servo control valve defective
- CPC valve A defective
- CPC valve B defective
- Lock-up shift valve defective
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- Accumulator body defective
- 3rd accumulator defective
- 2nd check ball stuck
- 2nd clutch defective
- 3rd clutch defective
- Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Test the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) operation with the HDS.
- Inspect the shift solenoid valve function with the HDS.
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A or B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
- Check the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
- Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage.
- Check for a stuck servo valve in the regulator valve body, replace the regulator valve body.
- Check the servo control valve, CPC valve A, and the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Check CPC valve B in the secondary valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the secondary valve body.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 2nd and 3rd clutches, if the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
- Check for a stuck 2nd check ball in the secondary valve body.
|
| Excessive shock or engine revs up abnormally high on 3-4 upshift or 4-3 downshift |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) defective
- Shift fork shaft stuck
- Servo control valve defective
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- 3rd accumulator defective
- Accumulator body defective
- 3rd clutch defective
- 4th clutch defective
- Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Test the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) operation with the HDS.
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A or B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check the 3rd and 4th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
- Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage.
- Check for a stuck servo valve in the regulator valve body, replace the regulator valve body.
- Check the servo control valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move, replace the main valve body.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 3rd and 4th clutches. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
|
| Excessive shock or engine revs up abnormally high on 4-5 upshift or 5-4 downshift |
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
- Accumulator body defective
- 4th clutch defective
- 5th clutch defective
- Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
|
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A or B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the 4th and 5th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST
). t Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
- Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc of the 4th and 5th clutches. If the clearance is out of tolerance, replace the 4th/5th clutch assembly.
- Replace the accumulator body.
|
| Noise from transmission in all shift lever positions |
- ATF pump worn or binding
- ATF strainer clogged
- Mainshaft, countershaft, secondary shaft, and intermediary shaft bearings worn or damaged
- Idler gears worn or damaged
- Thrust washer seized, worn, or damaged
|
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Improper alignment of the ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
- Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged Components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
- Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the cooler and lines.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause the ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools.
- Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage.
- Inspect the countershaft and the secondary shaft for wear and damage.
- Inspect the park mechanism at the park lever link, park gear, and 2nd gears.
- Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, the intermediary shaft, and idler gears for wear and damage.
- Check the thrust washers on all shafts for seizure, wear, and damage.
|
| Vehicle does not accelerate above 31 mph (50 km/h) |
Torque converter one-way clutch defective |
|
| Vibration in all shift lever positions |
- Worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts
- Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled
- Torque converter defective
- ATF pump worn or defective
- Engine control problem
|
- Check the engine and transmission mounts.
- Check for a misassembled transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged.
- Check the engine control system.
- Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST
).
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Improper alignment of ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
- Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the cooler and lines.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause the ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools.
|
| Shift lever does not operate smoothly |
- Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
- Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment
- Shift lever mechanism worn or defective
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- Manual valve defective
- Selector control shaft worn or damaged
|
- Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
- Check the manual valve in the main valve body for wear and damage, and check the manual lever guide pin for wear and damage. If the manual valve is worn and damage, replace the main valve body.
|
| Transmission does not shift into P |
- Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- Park mechanism defective
- Secondary shaft 2nd gear worn or damaged
|
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
- Inspect the countershaft and the secondary shaft for wear and damage.
- Inspect the park mechanism at the park lever link, park gear, and 2nd gears.
|
| Torque converter clutch does not operate smoothly; torque converter clutch does not disengage |
- Shift solenoid valve D defective
- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
- Torque converter clutch piston defective
- Torque converter check valve defective
- Lock-up shift valve defective
- Lock-up control valve defective
- Lock-up timing valve defective
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
- Foreign material in separator plate orifice
|
- Test the shift solenoid valve function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT
).
- Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
).
- Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
- Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST
).
- Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, the ATF feed pipes, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Check the torque converter check valve, the lock-up shift valve, and the lock-up timing valve in the main valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move replace the main valve body.
- Check the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement. If the valve does not move replace the regulator valve body.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever.
- Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
|
| A/T gear position indicator does not indicate shift lever positions |
- Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
- Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
- Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
|
- Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable.
- Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
|