Recirculation Control Motor Test
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2013 Acura MDX, 2012 Acura MDX, 2011 Acura MDX, and 2010 Acura MDX. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE:
Before testing, check for HVAC DTCs (see HOW TO CHECK FOR DTCS WITH THE HDS
).
- Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
).NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully.
- Connect battery power to terminal No. 1 of the recirculation control motor, and ground terminal No. 2; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Recirculation. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Fresh. When the recirculation control motor stops running, disconnect battery power immediately.
- If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement.
- If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).
- If the linkage or door stick or bind, repair them as needed.
- If the recirculation control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
- Use a digital multimeter with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 kΩ range. With the recirculation control motor running as in step 2, check for continuity between the terminals No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5 and the terminal No. 7 individually. There should be continuity for a moment at each terminal as the motor moves past the switch's terminal.
- If there is no continuity for a moment at each terminal, replace the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).